January might be the middle of winter but as the days lengthen the garden starts to grow. Now is a great time to plan for the coming gardening year and to order seeds and plants. Enjoy the fresh air, on dry sunny days, and check your winter protection, stakes, ties and supports are still working after any severe weather. Also put out food for birds and leave some garden areas uncut, a little longer, to provide shelter for wildlife in your garden.
Sow seeds of Begonia, Lobelia, Salvia and Pelargonium in a heated greenhouse or propagator to provide early plants.
Sweet peas can be sown this month. Sweet peas sown earlier in the autumn can now be potted on taking care not to disturb the roots too much. Place them on a sunny windowsill, or on a high shelf in the greenhouse that gets plenty of light.
This is the last chance to sow seeds that need frost in order to germinate (such as native tree and shrub seeds, and alpine plants).
Plant lily bulbs in pots and in borders during mild spells.
Summer bulbs, seed potatoes and onion sets will be available to buy from the middle of the month.
Cut off old leaves of hellebores that produce flowers from ground level to expose the flowers.
Cut away some Iris unguicularis leaves to expose the flowers.
Root cuttings can be taken now. Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein), Acanthus and Phlox are suitable examples.
Start cutting back grasses and other perennials left for winter interest. Alternatively you can leave them a few more months to provide cover for wildlife.
In mild areas, and during dry spells, you can still lift and divide herbaceous perennials. This will increase stocks, and revive tired or poorly flowering clumps.
Rake up any winter debris and leaves off your borders to keep them tidy. Clear up any weedy beds ready for mulching in the spring.
Collect leaves that have blown over alpine beds as these plants are easily smothered. Bare patches can be covered with gritty compost.
Containers
Keep tubs and containers tidy, cutting back and removing debris regularly. They can be mulched with compost or grit. Grit is aesthetically pleasing, and will reduce the surface puddling that can occur when light composts are beaten into a solid ‘cap’ by raindrops.
Some pots – particularly those sheltered by eaves or balconies – may need watering. Check the compost (at a hand’s depth) to see if it feels dry. Aim to keep pots moist (not too wet), but do not let them dry out.
Raise patio containers onto feet or bricks, if you have not done so already, to avoid them sitting in the wet.
Tender plant care
Even in mild areas, tender plants that cannot be left outside with protection should really be taken into the greenhouse or conservatory by the beginning of this month. In cold areas, you are best moving things inside much earlier, in the autumn.
In cold spells, protect non frost-proof containers (terracotta pots for example) with bubble wrap, hessian or fleece, to prevent them cracking. Grouping the pots close to a south-facing wall may provide additional protection to the most vulnerable ones.
Ensure protective straw or fleece is still in place on tender plants overwintering outdoors.
Stock up on store cupboard items such as string, stakes and canes for use later in the year.
Inspect stored tubers of plants such as Dahlia and Canna for signs of drying out. Although care is needed to prevent dampness and rots occurring, it is important not to let the tubers become bone dry, or they will not grow next season.
Keep alpine houses well ventilated. Remove dead leaves from around basal rosettes to prevent rotting.
Protect new sweet pea plants from aphids. Check autumn-sown sweet peas growing in cold frames, and apply mouse and slug controls if necessary.
Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies.
Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants.
Look out for rots such as: crown rot, sclerotinia, Delphinium black blotch and black root rot on died down perennials. Check stored bulbs for signs of rot and remove affected bulbs.
Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris. Antirrhinum rust and Delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia, will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe.
Hellebore leaf spot can be a problem on old foliage of hellebores.
This month there are signs of the approaching spring, with bulbs appearing and wildlife waking up as light levels and temperatures increase. There’s plenty to do indoors this month to prepare for the season ahead. Outdoors, as the garden comes to life again, it’s time to prune shrubs and climbers, such as Wisteria as well as evergreen hedges.
Lily bulbs can be planted in pots, for flowers this summer. After growing on indoors or in a cool greenhouse, they can be moved onto the patio when in flower, so that you can enjoy the blooms.
Dahlia tubers stored over winter (or bought this year) can be started into growth. Place them in a light, warm place to sprout before planting. They will need additional misting with a spray-bottle of water, to stop them drying out.
Hardy annuals can be sown in pots or modules to provide colour.
Summer-flowering Dutch iris bulbs can be forced and used as cut flowers.
Place gladioli corms in seed trays or boxes and place in a light, warm spot around 10ºC (50ºF) to encourage them to sprout before planting. This will ensure an earlier display.
Sweet peas can be sown under cloches, in a cold frame, or in a cool room in the house. Any sweet peas that were sown earlier in the autumn can now be potted.
Root cuttings can be taken of Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein), Acanthus (bear’s britches) and Phlox.
Check on tender plants overwintering outdoors to ensure protective coverings are still in place.
Cut back deciduous ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus and other perennials left for winter interest.
Continue to deadhead winter pansies and other winter bedding. Pansies will carry on into the spring and even to early summer, if attended to frequently.
Cut off old leaves of hellebores that produce flowers from ground level (including Helleborus x hybridus and H. niger) to expose the flowers and remove possible foliar diseases such as hellebore leaf spot.
At the end of the month prune back the stems of pot-grown fuchsias, which are overwintering under cover, and place in a well-lit, warm place to encourage new growth.
Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green such as snowdrops (Galanthus) and winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis).
Divide clumps of herbaceous perennials that you want to propagate.
Prepare beds for new roses when conditions allow. Avoid wet days and frozen ground.
Test your soil for pH and nutrient levels; this can help you choose suitable plants for your garden, and allow you to rectify any nutrient deficiencies with a spring feed.
Improve the drainage of heavy soils by working in lots of organic matter such as Tippland Farm yard manure , soil enricher and coarse gravel (if necessary).
Clear up weedy beds before mulching.
Mulching with a deep layer of organic matter helps to condition the soil, suppress weed growth, insulate plant roots from temperature fluctuations, and conserve soil moisture during the summer. Lighter soils can be mulched now, but heavier soils are best left until March, when the soil is warmer.
Towards the end of the month, you can top dress beds and borders with a balanced fertiliser such as Rapid Grow Seaweed enriched fertiliser or Tippland organic poultry manure, to feed perennials as they start back into growth.
Check whether containers need watering. Pots that are sheltered by eaves or balconies can miss out on any rainfall. Check the compost at a hand’s depth to see if it feels dry. Aim to keep pots moist, not wet.
Pots and containers benefit from topping up with fresh John Innes compost. Old compost can be removed and replaced if there is not much room.
Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants such as saxifrages to prevent rotting.
Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and to help prevent stem rots.
Snowdrops can be vulnerable to botrytis (grey mould).
On winter pansies watch out for downy mildew and black spot. Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants. To avoid the build-up of diseases, do not to plant pansies in the same place every year.
Look out for rots (such as crown rot, sclerotinia, delphinium black blotch, phytophthora root rot and antirrhinum rust) on emerging perennials and shrubs.
Hellebore leaf spot can be a problem on old foliage of hellebores. Cutting back the old leaves should control the problem, and allow the flowers and new growth to be better seen.
Protect sweet pea plants from aphids as they can transmit sweet pea viruses. Check autumn-sown sweet peas growing in cold frames, and apply mouse and slug controls if necessary.
Protect lily, delphinium and hosta shoots from slugs and snails before they appear.
Inspect stored tubers of plants such as dahlia and canna for signs of drying out. Do not let them become bone dry or they will desiccate; but too wet and they may rot.
Stock up on stakes and ties for the coming season, if you have not done so already.
Plan your summer bedding and container planting schemes in good time for ordering the necessary bulbs, annuals and seed, and for propagating the relevant material.
Spring usually arrives by mid-March and the frequent sunny days provide the opportunity for an increasing range of gardening tasks. It’s time to get busy preparing seed beds, sowing seed, cutting back winter shrubs and generally tidying up around the garden.
Hardy annuals can be sown in pots or modules to provide colour in the garden. In mild areas you can sow directly outside. Marking out irregularly shaped seedbeds and broadcasting drifts of different seed gives a more natural look.
Sweet peas can be sown outside this month. Place autumn-sown sweet peas in a sunny position, perhaps on a high shelf in the greenhouse that gets plenty of light. Sow summer bedding plants in a heated propagator or under glass.
Early spring is an ideal time to plant herbaceous perennials, including Geranium, Astrantia and Oriental poppies.
Plant summer-flowering bulbs. Prepare the soil first, to ensure that drainage is sufficient to prevent the bulbs rotting. Anemone coronaria tubers need particularly well-drained soils.
Plan a continuous crop of cut flowers for this summer. Perennials such as delphiniums and annuals can be grown to produce a useful and beautiful display.
When space becomes available in the greenhouse, pot up cuttings of tender perennials taken last summer and at the beginning of this year. Bulk up plant numbers by taking more cuttings from the largest of the new plants.
Indoor forced bulbs that were in the house for winter displays, but which have now finished flowering, can now be planted into the garden, taking care not to disturb the roots.
Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest, if you have not already done so. Even if they still look good, you need to make way for the new growth.
Cut off old leaves of hellebores that produce flowers from ground level (including Helleborus x hybridus and H. niger – left) to expose the flowers and remove possible foliar diseases such as hellebore leaf spot.
Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green, such as snowdrops (Galanthus) and winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis), if not done last month.
Divide clumps of herbaceous perennials that you want to propagate, those that have become too large for their allotted space, and those that are flowering poorly or have lost their shape.
Divide hostas before they come into leaf.
Divide hellebores and polyanthus-type primulas after flowering.
Propagate more dahlias from tubers. Pot them up in multi-purpose compost so that the old stalk is just above the surface. Water and place in a warm, light position or in a propagator. Once the fresh shoots have grown to 7.5-10cm (3-4in), cut them off carefully with a knife. Dust the ends with hormone rooting power and push them into a pot containing cuttings compost. Place back in a propagator or plastic bag until roots appear.
Perennials that are showing new shots from the crown can be propagated via basal stem cuttings. Shoots 7.5-10cm (3-4in) high are cut from the parent plant with a sharp knife. Sometimes a piece of root can be taken with the cutting (which speeds establishment), but stems can be cut without root, and then dipped in hormone rooting powder before striking into growing medium, as for softwood cuttings.
Continue to deadhead winter-flowering pansies and other winter bedding. Pansies will carry on into the spring and even to early summer, if attended to frequently.
Deadhead the flowers ofNarcissus (daffodils) as they fade, but allow the foliage to die down naturally.
Herbaceous perennials infested with couch grass and other perennial weeds should be lifted so the roots of the weeds can be removed.
Improve the soil by digging in organic matter before replanting.
Clear up weedy beds before mulching. Lighter soils can be mulched now, but heavier soils are best left until March, when the soil is warmer. Mulching with a deep layer of organic matter helps to condition the soil, suppress weed growth, insulate plant roots from temperature fluctuations, and conserve soil moisture during the summer.
Bulbs coming up in the rock garden or in containers may benefit from overhead protection from the rain. A sheet of glass or perspex placed on piles of bricks will do the job.
Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and to help prevent stem rots. Mulch may need replacing after weed removal.
Improve the drainage of heavy soils by working in lots of organic matter.
Perennials putting on plenty of growth may need support by the end of the month.
Check whether containers need watering. Even at this time of year, they can dry out. Pots that are sheltered by eaves or balconies can miss out on any rainfall. If in doubt, check the compost at a hand’s depth to see if it feels dry. Aim to keep pots moist, not wet, and don’t let them dry out.
Pots and tubs benefit from topping up with fresh John Innes compost. Old compost can be removed and replaced with new if there is not much room for topping up. Some grit will also deter slugs.
Feed borders with a Tippland Organic poultry manure pellets.
It is best to get supports in early, so that the plants grow up through them, covering them discreetly. Adding rigid supports afterwards usually looks unattractive and results in bunched stems lacking sufficient ventilation. Criss-crossing strings from hidden or decorative posts work well, allowing stems to grow up in the gaps between strings.
In mild areas, you should remove winter coverings of fleece, straw, polythene etc, to prevent new shoots being damaged. In cold areas, you are best waiting until the risk of frost has passed.
You may wish to get your sweet pea wigwam growing supports ready. In mild areas, you can transplant young plants to the feet of the wigwam, using a light twine to tie them in.
Continue to protect new growth on lilies, delphiniums, hostas and any other plants affected, from slugs and snails.
Check autumn-sown sweet peas growing in cold frames, and keep watch for mouse and slug damage.
Hellebore leaf spot can be a problem on old foliage of hellebores. Cutting back the old leaves should control the problem.
Aphids can multiply rapidly during mild spells. Remove early infestations by hand to prevent the problem getting out of hand. Protect sweet pea plants in particular, as they can get sweet pea viruses, which are transmitted by aphids and other sap-sucking insects.
Watch out for downy mildew and black leaf spot on winter pansies. Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants.
Look out for rots (such as crown rot, Sclerotinia, delphinum black blotch, black root rot and antirrhinum rust).
Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants to prevent rotting.
Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and help prevent rotting around the neck.
Spring is finally in evidence as daffodils and flowering trees start to bloom. Expect the inevitable April showers this month but with sunny days too, when you can turn your attention to the lawn. It’s an exciting month, with indoor-sown seeds well into growth, and it’s also time to start sowing outdoors. Just watch out for frosts…
Hardy annuals can be sown in pots or modules to provide colour in the garden. Annual grasses can be fun to try too: Briza maxima (right), Lagurus ovatus and Hordeum jubatum are suitable examples. In mild areas with light soil, you can sow directly outside by marking out irregularly shaped seedbeds and broadcasting ‘drifts’ of different seed to give a more natural look.
Modular trays are useful for sowing half-hardy summer bedding plants such as marigolds (Tagetes),Lobelia, and Petunia. Label each seed tray. You will need to sow them under cover, or in a heated propagator, at the correct temperature, only putting them outside when the weather is reliably warm day and night.
Sweet peas can be sown outside this month. Plant out autumn-sown sweet peas that have been raised in pots, and prepare your wigwam supports for them to climb, using a light twine to tie the plants in.
If you started sowing early in March, or even February, you may have modules of young hardy annuals now ready for planting out.
Towards the end of the month, in mild areas, you may be able to plant up hanging baskets for the summer. When planting hanging baskets use Tippland Container & Basket compost for best results.
When space becomes available in the greenhouse, pot up cuttings of tender perennials taken last summer and at the beginning of this year. You can bulk up plant numbers by taking more cuttings from the largest of the new plants.
Plant summer-flowering bulbs, if not done already. Prepare the soil first, to ensure that drainage is sufficient to prevent the bulbs rotting. Anemone coronaria tubers, for instance, need particularly well-drained soils.
You can still plant herbaceous perennials such as Geranium, Astrantia and oriental poppies. Check that the plants you buy have strong, green shoots and plant them into well-prepared soil.
Plan a continuous crop of cut flowers for this summer. Perennials such as delphiniums and annuals can be grown to produce a useful and beautiful display.
Prune penstemons and other slightly tender plants such asTeucrium and lavender. Make the cuts just above fresh, new shoots.
When pruning perennials some plants benefit from having their flowering shoots thinned out. Although this results in fewer blooms, they are larger and of better quality. Delphiniums, lupins and phlox all benefit from this process.
Divide herbaceous perennials when they are too large for their allotted space, are flowering poorly or have lost their shape. Bamboos and clumps of bulbs or rhizomes can be divided in the same way. When transplanting the divisions make sure they have roots, shoots, and are given adequate water to settle into their new positions.
Perennials that are showing new shoots from the crown can be propagated via basal stem cuttings. Shoots 8-10cm (3-4in) high are cut from the parent plant with a sharp knife. Sometimes a piece of root can be taken with the cutting (which speeds establishment), but stems can be cut without root, and then dipped in hormone rooting powder before striking into Tippland Multipurpose with added John Innes compost, as for softwood cuttings.
Put supports in place for perennials before they get too large. Criss-crossing strings from hidden or decorative posts work well, allowing stems to grow up in the gaps between strings.
Apply Rapid Grow seaweed enriched fertiliser to borders and beds. Take care not to damage emerging shoots, or to burn them with fertiliser.
Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and to help prevent stem rots.
Bulbs coming up in the rock garden or in containers may benefit from overhead protection from the rain – a sheet of glass or perspex placed on bricks will do the job.
Remove faded daffodil and tulip flowers, nipping off the heads and seed pod at the same time.
Deadhead pansies, primulas and other spring bedding plants. Pansies will carry on into the spring and even to early summer, if attended to frequently.
It is now time to remove tired winter bedding and plants that did not survive the winter.
Check that self-seeded forget-me-nots aren’t smothering other border plants. Pull out plants if necessary.
Hoe borders to prevent annual and perennial weeds from spreading and seeding themselves.
Herbaceous perennials infested with couch grass and other perennial weeds should be lifted so the roots of the weeds can be removed.
Any mulches may need replacing after weed removal.
You could plant up an alpine trough to display some of your alpine plants as many can look their best at this time of year.
Check whether containers need watering. Even at this time of year, they can dry out.
Pots and tubs benefit from topping up with fresh compost such as Tippland Container & Basket compost. Old compost can be removed and replaced with new to a depth of 5cm (2in) if there is not much room for topping up.
Pot on plants showing signs of being pot-bound. You can tip out the root balls of unhappy looking containers, to see if they are pot-bound or if they are suffering from some other problem.
Aphids can multiply rapidly during mild spells. Remove early infestations by hand to prevent the problem getting out of hand. Protect sweet pea plants in particular, as they can get sweet pea viruses.
Continue to protect lilies, delphiniums, hostas and other new shoots from slugs and snails.
Damage to plant roots by vine weevil larvae shows by the plants starting to wilt. On inspection the roots will have been badly eaten, and you may see the white C shaped larvae among them. Apply biological control if larvae are present, but young and containerised plants are unlikely to recover once badly damaged.
Watch out for downy mildew and black leaf spot on winter pansies. Remove any affected leaves and destroy badly affected plants.
Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants to prevent rotting.
Evergreens
In cooler areas, and earlier in the month, you can still move and plant evergreen trees and shrubs provided the soil is not waterlogged. They are best moved or planted once actively growing and when there is less risk of cold weather.
Deciduous
In colder areas, you can also still plant container-grown deciduous hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting to prevent damage to the rootball and bark.
Remember that watering and establishment may be problematic for large plants as the weather gets warmer and dryer, and you may be better delaying planting them until October.
Mulch rose and shrub beds with a 5-8cm (2-3in) layer of soil enricher or Tippland Farmyard Manure. This will help retain moisture during dry spells, reduce weed build-up and over time improve soil structure. Pay particular attention to mulching around rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, as flowering is impaired if they are allowed to dry out during late summer.
Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a balanced fertiliser (such as Rapid grow seaweed enriched fertiliser or organic poultry manure, sprinkling it over the root area before hoeing into the soil surface. This will particularly benefit young, weak, damaged or heavily pruned plants.
Winter-stemmed shrubs such as Salix and Cornus can still be cut back at the beginning of the month. Prune back hard all the previous year’s growth to within 1-2cm (0.5-0.75in) of the framework.
Other shrubs that are routinely stooled (cut back hard) in spring, to keep their larger or more brightly coloured juvenile foliage, such as the smoke bush (Cotinus) and elders (Sambucus), can be cut back this month. You can leave a couple of branches un-pruned if you are reluctant to lose all the height gained last year.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs such as Forsythia and Chaenomeles until after they have finished flowering, otherwise this year’s display will be lost.
Remove any frost damaged shoots from evergreens damaged by earlier cold weather.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Lightly cut back lavenders to prevent them getting too leggy and woody. Treat Helichrysum (curry plant) and Santolina (cotton lavender) similarly.
Loosen any tree ties that are digging into the bark, or could do so soon as the trunk girth expands.
Twining climbers (such as honeysuckle and clematis) need regular tying in and twining around their supports.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow, causing more sideshoots to grow along the length of stem, and so producing more flowers.
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, especially if attention to watering is given during dry weather. Try with Philadelphus, Forsythia, Hydrangea and Lonicera.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on.
Take cuttings of your favourite conifers.
Bracket fungus on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.
Avoid planting new roses in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise the new plants may suffer from rose replant disease.
Inspect sick-looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Be aware that insects emerge as temperatures rise. Caterpillars, aphids, and other fly pests may all become problematic during mild spells. Early infestations can often be managed by hand removal, making insecticides unnecessary.
As bulbs fade and herbaceous borders grow in leaps and bounds, it is now clear that summer is approaching. Sowing and planting out bedding can begin, depending on regional weather variations, and you can take softwood cuttings. It’s also time to get back into the lawn mowing regime, as the lawn will be loving the warmer temperatures this month brings.
Plant out cannas and dahlias (such as Dahlia ‘David Howard’, left) when the danger of frost has passed. Tubs can be planted up with summer bedding in milder areas. In colder areas further north or at high altitudes, it is advised to wait until early June, or until all risk of frost has passed.
If you want to grow your own spring bedding for next year, many common choices (including wallflowers, pansies, and daisies, Bellis perennis) need to be sown between now and July in order to flower next spring, as they are biennials.
Winter bedding plants can also be sown from now until July. Remove faded wallflowers and spring bedding from beds and containers, to make space for summer plantings.
Divide clumps of herbaceous perennials that you want to propagate. Bamboos and clumps of bulbs or rhizomes can be divided in the same way. Cutting back clumps of spring-flowering perennials such as Pulmonaria and Doronicum can encourage a fresh flush of foliage.
Divide Primula (primroses) after flowering, planting them in a nursery bed until they are ready for planting out again in the autumn, for a display the following spring.
Divide hostas as they come into growth.
Spreading and trailing plants such as the annual Lobularia (sweet alyssum), and the perennials Alyssum and Aubrieta, can become tatty and patchy. Trimming them back after flowering encourages fresh growth and new flowers.
Lift and divide over crowded clumps of daffodils after they have flowered.
Deadhead tulips and daffodils.
Take softwood cuttings of tender perennials like Argyranthemum, Pelargonium and Fuchsia. They will provide new plants for display later this summer.
Perennials that are showing new shoots from the crown can be propagated via basal stem cuttings.
Apply a liquid fertiliser to spring bulbs after they have flowered, to encourage good flowering next year, and help prevent daffodil blindness.
Allow the foliage of daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs to die down naturally.
Lift clumps of forget-me-not once the display wanes, and before too many seeds are released. They can become invasive if left unchecked.
Put supports in place for herbaceous plants before they are too tall, or for those – like peonies – that produce heavy blooms.
Harden off plants raised from seed and cuttings by leaving them outside for gradually increasing periods of time. Start with only the warmest part of the day, and build up to overnight exposure. Doing this for 10-14 days before planting them outdoors permanently (whenever the risk of frost has passed), will reduce any check to their growth while establishing in their final position.
Thin out direct sowings of hardy annuals and vegetables such as radishes (left). This is best done in two or three stages at fortnightly intervals. Final spacing should be between 10-20cm (4-8in), using the upper limit for tall or spreading plants, and the lower limit for smaller plants. Prick out indoor sowings when they are large enough to handle without damage.
Hoe borders to prevent annual and perennial weeds from spreading and seeding themselves.
Sweet peas need training and tying in to their supports to encourage them to climb and make a good display.
Pinch out the leading shoots on plants such as Chrysanthemum and Helianthus to encourage bushy plants. However, if tall thin sprays are preferred, they can be left un-pinched, perhaps removing a few buds (known as ‘disbudding’) to encourage larger blooms.
Liquid feed plants in containers every two to four weeks.
Keep tubs, hanging baskets and alpine troughs well watered. Use collected rainwater, or recycled grey water wherever possible.
Pot on plants showing signs of being root bound. You can tip out the root balls of unhappy looking containerised specimens, to see if they are indeed pot bound or if they are suffering from some other problem.
Inspect lilies for red lily beetles as the larvae can strip plants in days.
Vine weevil larvae can be a serious pest of containerised plants, and become active this month. Tip out the rootball of suspect plants, and inspect for the creamy, orange-headed maggots, which tend to curl up into a ‘C’ shape. There are various chemical and biological controls available.
Aphids can multiply rapidly during mild spells. Remove early infestations by hand to prevent the problem getting out of hand. Protect sweet pea plants in particular, as they can get sweet pea viruses.
Continue to protect lily, delphinium, hosta and other susceptible plants from slugs and snails.
Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants to prevent rotting.
Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and help prevent rotting around the neck.
This time of year is nesting season so always check for signs of activity before getting out the pruners. Cut back tender shrubs and sub-shrubs such as Penstemon, Caryopteris and Fuchsia after the danger of frost has passed.
Clip evergreen hedges. If not too woody, shredded clippings can be added to the compost heap, ideally in combination with soft material such as grass clippings.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs such as japonica or Japanese quince (Chaenomeles), Choisya and Ribes after flowering. Remove one stem in three from Kerria and Spiraea ‘Arguta’, and shorten the other flowered stems to a suitable sideshoot. Evergreens such as Viburnum tinus can also still be trimmed this month.
Prune overcrowded, dead or diseased stems of Clematis montana once it has finished flowering. Untangling the stems can be fiddly, but once you can see where you are cutting, you need not worry about pruning this plant – it will take even hard cutting back very well.
Late spring is a good time to coppice or pollard Eucalyptus.
Prune out frost damage from affected evergreen shrubs.
Young mimosa trees (Acacia dealbata) can also be cut back now. Mature trees respond less well to pruning.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Prune wall-trained pyracanthas, removing any shoots coming out from the wall, and shortening other new growth to about 8cm (3in). This encourages spur formation, and increased flowering relative to green growth.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow causing more side-shoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
Twining climbers (such as honeysuckle and Clematis) need regular tying in and twining around their supports.
Ensure newly planted trees and shrubs do not dry out. Water with rainwater or recycled water wherever possible.
Loosen any tree ties that are digging into the bark, or could do so soon as the trunk girth expands.
Take softwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs, including Forsythia, Fuchsia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Philadelphus
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, especially if attention to watering is given during dry weather. Examples to try include Philadelphus, Forsythia, Hydrangea and Lonicera.
Viburnum beetle grubs start nibbling holes in the leaves this month, giving plants a tattered appearance. Inspect V. tinus and V. opulus regularly and spray or pick off the grubs by hand.
Check roses for signs of blackspot, aphids and leaf-rolling sawfly damage.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather followed by a hot spring and summer can encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Caterpillars, aphids and other fly pests can all be problematic at this time of year. Early infestations can be managed by hand removal, but approved insecticides are necessary for more serious attacks.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Camellias sometimes fail to perform as well as hoped. This can be down to insufficient watering in the previous summer or current spring, but can be also be due to problems with frost, wind, or poor soil conditions. Try improving cultural conditions before concluding that the problem is a pest, fungus, or virus.
June 21 is the longest day of the year, and the extra light and warmth encourages the garden to put on an exuberant burst of growth. But this extra light and warmth also means weeds will sprout up from seemingly nowhere. Keep on top of them by hoeing regularly in dry conditions.
Plant out summer bedding and seed-raised plants. Make sure they are well watered in and keep them moist during dry weather.
Plant out cannas and dahlias once the danger of frost has passed.
Gaps in herbaceous borders are best filled with annual bedding at this stage in the season. One exception is anemones (e.g. Anemone coronaria), which take about three months to flower after planting. The rhizomes are best planted now, after an overnight soaking, 5cm (2in) deep in a suitably moist but free-draining soil or compost with lots of added leafmould or organic matter.
It is not too late to direct sow a few fast growing, late-flowering hardy annuals such as Calendula, Godetia and Clarkia.
Perennials such as hollyhock, delphiniums (such as D. ‘Fenella’, right) and lupins can be sown directly into drills outside once the seedheads have ripened and started to split naturally. If garden space is limited you can sow them into pots and place them in a cold frame or by the base of a sheltered wall in filtered sunlight.
Thin out direct sowings of hardy annuals. This is best done in two or three stages at fortnightly intervals. Final spacings should be between 10-20cm (4-8in), using the upper limit for tall or spreading plants, and the lower limit for smaller plants.
Prick out indoor sowings when they are large enough to handle without damage, potting them on and then planting them out once they are robust.
If you want to grow your own spring bedding for next year, many (including wallflowers, pansies, and daisies, Bellis perennis) need to be sown between May and July in order to flower next spring.
Polyanthus primulas are best sown only when temperatures are reliably warm, as they need a constant temperature of around 15°C (60°F). A sheltered cold frame in June or July provides the right environment.
Winter bedding plants for the following winter can also be sown from May until July. Attractive choices include ornamental cabbages, kales and winter pansies.
Tubs can be planted up with summer bedding if not done already.
Hellebore seed can be harvested once the seed heads have ripened (i.e. when squeezing the pod causes it to split and release seeds).
Seed needs to be sown immediately, while fresh, and need a winter’s cold season in order to break their dormancy in order for germination to occur. Do remember that seed grown plants will differ from the parent plant.
Spreading and trailing plants, can become tatty and patchy. Trimming them back after flowering encourages fresh growth and new flowers.
Cut back dead bulb foliage if not done already. It is important to wait until the foliage dies down naturally, as cutting back too early can lead to blindness next year.
Cutting back clumps of spring-flowering perennials can encourage a fresh flush of foliage.
Cut back and deadhead Oriental poppies after flowering. Cutting them right back to ground level will stimulate growth of fresh new foliage, and perhaps even some new blooms. Mulching and feeding will help to support this new growth.
Euphorbias looks a lot better if spent flowers are removed, cutting the flowered stem back to ground level. This can be especially important with Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae (right), as old stems of this cultivar are particularly prone to powdery mildew when grown in dry soils.
Pinch out the leading shoots on plants such as Chrysanthemum and Helianthus to encourage bushy plants. However, if tall thin sprays are preferred, they can be left un-pinched, perhaps removing a few buds (known as ‘disbudding’) to encourage larger blooms.
Divide hostas as they come into growth. Divide Primula (primroses) after flowering, planting them in a nursery bed until they are ready for planting out again in the autumn.
Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of bulbs after they have finished flowering.
Perennials that are showing new shoots from the crown can still be propagated via basal stem cuttings.
Take cuttings from garden pinks (Dianthus). They can be pulled off the parent plant by pulling with thumb and forefinger while holding a suitable non-flowering shoot four pairs of leaves from the tip. Treat as softwood cuttings.
Hoe borders to prevent annual and perennial weeds from spreading and seeding themselves.
Tackle bindweed when it appears in a border.
Lift clumps of forget-me-not once the display wanes, and before too many seeds are released. They can become invasive if left unchecked.
Stake tall perennials to prevent wind damage to flower spikes.
Sweet peas need training and tying in to their supports to encourage them to climb and make a good display.
Liquid feed containerised plants every two to four weeks.
Keep tubs, hanging baskets and alpine troughs well watered. Use collected rainwater, or recycled grey water wherever possible.
Pot on plants showing signs of being rootbound.
Inspect lilies for the scarlet lily beetle whose larvae can strip plants in days.
Vine weevil larvae can be a serious pest of containerised plants, and become active this month. There are various chemical and biological controls available.
Aphids multiply rapidly in summer. Remove early infestations by hand to prevent the problem getting out of control. Aphids can transmit viruses, as can other sap-sucking insects.
Continue to protect lilies, delphiniums, hostas and other susceptible plants from slugs and snails.
Hellebores can develop hellebore leaf spot on old leaves; remove any damaged leaves.
This is often one of the hottest months of the year and a great time to sit out and enjoy your garden. Keep plants looking good by regularly dead-heading, and you’ll enjoy a longer display of blooms. Make sure you keep new plants well watered, using grey water where possible, and hoe off weeds, which thrive in the sunshine.
Autumn-flowering bulbs, such as autumn crocuses, Colchicum, Sternbergia, Amaryllis and Nerine, can be planted now.
Some seeds are best planted just after collection, and others may need specific climatic conditions to break dormancy (e.g. some alpines). If unsure, then sow seeds in ‘batches’, i.e. one immediately after collecting, one in winter, and one in the following spring.
Cutting back, pruning and dividing Cutting back plants in baskets followed by feeding can encourage new growth and help revive tired displays.
Cut back delphiniums and geraniums after the first flush of flowers to encourage a second flowering period. Feed after cutting them back.
Deadhead flower borders regularly to prolong flowering. Disbud and dead-head dahlias if growing for large blooms. Leave roses that produce attractive hips.
Divide clumps of bearded iris.
Plants with a carpet-like growth habit, e.g. some alpines, can become patchy, with central areas dying off. These patches can be in-filled with gritty compost, to encourage re-growth.
Take cuttings of patio and container plants ready for next year.
Repot snowdrops if growing in containers.
Pinks and carnations that have become leggy, can be propagated by layering or by cuttings. Propagation can improve the appearance of untidy clumps.
Prop up tall perennials such as lupins, delphiniums and gladioli if staking was neglected earlier in the season.
Liquid feed containerised plants and keep well watered in dry spells.
Some late-flowering border perennials may benefit from a quick-acting feed before they come into bloom, especially if the soil is not very fertile.
Mulching borders can help retain moisture, and keep down the weeds – this will save a lot of work. A really thick layer of Tippland decorative bark mulch (5-7.5cm/2-3in all over) works best.
Most perennial weeds are best dealt with in the summer when the weeds are in active growth. Digging out often works, but applying a weedkiller can be more practical, particularly for large areas.
Start collecting seed from plants you want to grow next year, especially annuals such as Calendula, poppy and love-in-a-mist.
Inspect lilies for the scarlet lily beetle whose larvae can strip plants in days.
Vine weevils can also be a problem at this time of year.
Small holes and tears in new foliage of ornamentals such as Caryopteris, Fuchsia and Dahlia are most likely caused by capsid bug damage.
Watch out for aphids (greeenfly and blackfly) on stems and leaves of young shoots.
Sudden collapse of apparently healthy clematis, especially the large-flowered cultivars, could indicate clematis wilt.
Check Clematis for slugs including ring damage.
In dry weather powdery mildew can play havoc with plants such as clematis, roses and Lonicera.
Look out for and treat black spot on roses and scab on Pyracantha
August is usually one of the hottest months of the year – making watering essential. Try to use grey water wherever possible, especially as water butts may be running low if it has been a dry summer. August is traditionally holiday-time, so you might need to enlist the help of friends and family to look after the garden while you are away. When you are at home, take the time to prune Wisteria and summer-flowering shrubs such as lavender once they’ve finished flowering.
Towards the end of August sow hardy annuals directly into borders. They will overwinter and flower next summer.
Cutting back the foliage and stems of herbaceous plants that have already died back (e.g. Dicentra) is starting to be a priority.
Don’t neglect hanging baskets – deadheading, watering and feeding will help them last through until autumn.
Deadhead plants such as Dahlia, roses and Penstemon and bedding to prolong the display colour well into early autumn.
Don’t cut off the flowerheads of ornamental grasses. These will provide winter interest.
Hardy geraniums can be cut back a little to remove tired leaves and encourage a new flush of growth.
Prune climbing and rambling roses that do not repeat flower or produce attractive hips, once the flowers have finished.
Pinks and carnations can be propagated by layering. Propagate irises by dividing the rhizomes if not done last month.
Take cuttings of tender perennials such as Pelargonium and Osteospermum, as soon as possible. A greenhouse, cool conservatory or a light windowsill are ideal to bring them on until they are established.
Rock garden plants, such as Helianthemum, Aubrieta and Dianthus can be propagated from cuttings at this time of year.
Feed containers, and even tired border perennials, with a liquid tomato food each week to encourage them to bloom into the early autumn.
Keep picking flowers from the cutting garden to encourage more flower buds to form and open.
Alpines that have developed bare patches of die-back, or have become weedy, can be tidied up by in-filling the patches with gritty compost. This will encourage new growth as well as improving their appearance.
Most perennial weeds are best dealt with when in active growth.
Collect and store seed of hardy annuals and perennials for sowing later in the autumn. Good plants to try include Calendula, Nigella, Cerinthe, Papaver, Aquilegia and hardy Geranium.
Buy or order spring-flowering bulbs. Some bulbs can be planted now, such as Colchicum, daffodils and Madonna lilies (L. candidum).
Inspect chrysanthemums for the first signs of white rust and take immediate action.
Remove and destroy any Nicotiana showing signs of downy mildew. This shows up as yellowish blotches on the upper surface of the leaves.
A white silvery coating on the leaves of some perennials and shrubs caused by the fungus powdery mildew can be seen at this time of the year, although unsightly it’s not usually harmful to plants.
Apply nematodes to control vine weevil grubs, in pots or the ground.
If your dahlia blooms are ragged, earwigs are the likely cause of the damage, so fill small pots with shredded newspaper and place upturned on canes to trap them overnight.
Don’t be worried by bright green, heavily-armoured looking insects on your plants – these are harmless shieldbugs which do not require control.
Distortion on Phlox could indicate the presence of phlox eelworm. Discoloured leaves on herbaceous plants such as Chrysanthemum, Anemone and Penstemon may be leaf and bud eelworm.
September is generally a cooler, gustier month than August and the days are noticeably shorter. While there’s not as much to do in the ornamental garden at this time of the year, if you have a fruit or vegetable patch, you’ll be busy reaping the rewards of harvest. It’s also time to get out and start planting spring-flowering bulbs for next year and you can collect seeds for next summer’s colour too. Make the most of the remaining warmth while you can!
Sow sweet peas in a cold frame or the greenhouse for early summer blooms next year.
Sow other hardy annuals (e.g. Consolida, Calendula, Centaurea, Limnanthes and poppies) in situ.
If you sowed any spring-flowering biennials such as Viola, Digitalis (foxglove) or Erysimum (wallflowers), earlier in the summer, they will now need planting out.
This is a good time of year to plant new perennials, especially towards the end of September, as the soil is still warm, but moisture levels are increasing.
Don’t neglect hanging basket maintenance – a little deadheading, watering and feeding can keep them going until mid-autumn. Once they are past their best, re-plant as winter/spring hanging baskets with spring-flowering bulbs, winter heathers, trailing ivies and spring-flowering plants.
Continue to deadhead plants such as dahlias, delphiniums, roses and penstemons to prolong the display and give colour well into the month.
Continue cutting back perennials that are fading and dying down.
Now is a good time to divide any overgrown or tired looking clumps of alpines and herbaceous perennials such as crocosmias. This will invigorate them, and improve flowering and overall shape, for next year.
Take cuttings of tender perennials, such as Pelargonium and Osteospermum. These plants often do better grown from new cuttings each year. If you do not have a greenhouse, then use a light windowsill to grow them on.
Continue collecting and storing seed from perennials still forming seedheads.
Bring inside any tender perennials, such as fuchsias, gazanias, lantanas and abutilons, before frosts cause damage.
Some tall late-flowering perennials, such as asters, may still need staking to stop them being blown over in the wind.
Spring-flowering bulbs are now available in plant centres, garden centres and online.
Although we had some warmer days over September, the autumn is now definitely here for real, and it feels colder. It’s a beautiful time of year, with the trees changing colour. Sometimes it may seem pointless raking, when the wind blows even more leaves onto the lawn, but just think of all the lovely leafmould you can make! It’s also time to start preparing for early frosts.
If the weather is already autumnal, you can now plant and move shrubs and trees without having to worry excessively about their survival and establishment. Shrubs planted now will get off to a flying start next spring, as they will have had all winter to settle in.
Give evergreen hedges a final trim to make sure they are in shape for winter. This is particularly useful for fast-growing hedges such as leylandii (x Cuprocyparis leylandii). Remember to cut hedges slightly narrower at the top than the bottom – this makes them less liable to snow damage in winter and stops the hedge from shading itself out at the base, which can lead to dead patches.
Take semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen shrubs such as Cistus, Ceanothus and Viburnum.
If the weather is dry, keep watering early-flowering shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas, so that flower buds are initiated successfully for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Check tree ties and stakes before winter gales cause damage.
Place healthy fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leafmould. Shredding leaves first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Garden hygiene helps prevent pests and disease being carried over from one year to the next. Rake up and destroy – do not compost – any affected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, leaf blight on quince, and scab on apples and pears can all be partially controlled in this way.
Honey fungus toadstools begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are also many harmless, saprophytic fungi appearing at this time of year, living purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants. If the plants look healthy, then there is unlikely to be cause for concern.
Watch out for fungal diseases such as grey mould (Botrytis) or powdery mildew. Although less common on shrubs than on herbaceous plants, they may still cause problems when the weather is conducive.
Cultural controls are more effective than sprays at this time of year. Pruning to increase ventilation, and prompt removal of affected leaves, flowers or fruits is crucial. When pruning, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, die-back, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
Leaves are falling rapidly, and wind and rain are on the increase. Tender plants will need protecting from frost, gales and freezing rains. Move plants into the greenhouse, or into a sheltered spot, but if you can’t, it is worth wrapping plants or pots. Remember winter can be a tough time for birds in terms of water and food, so keep supplies well topped up.
Cut leaves off Christmas and Lenten rose type hellebores to make way for the flowers.
Lily bulbs can still be planted in pots this month. They can either be brought inside next spring to ‘force’ them into an early display, or left outside to flower naturally in summer.
Plant tulip bulbs this month. Some tulips persist year to year, some perform less well and are treated as bedding, and replaced every year.
Now is the last chance to plant out winter bedding. You could try wallflowers, forget-me-nots, Bellis, Primula, Viola (winter pansies) and other spring bedding plants, planting them into well-prepared ground, or in pots with Tippland container and basket compost.
Unless you are leaving dead stems for structure in the garden, or as habitats for over-wintering wildlife, you can continue to cut down faded herbaceous perennials and add these to the compost heap.
Penstemons are best dead-headed and left until the spring, when they can be cut back further. In mild areas they can carry on flowering well into the late autumn and early winter. The old faded stems will help to protect the crowns from cold. Mulching over the crowns in colder areas will also help.
Ornamental grasses and bamboos can be cut back and tidied up at this time of year.
It is still a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of herbaceous perennials.
Lift and store dahlias, cannas and tuberous bedding begonias that have been hit by the first frosts.
Root cuttings can be taken now and throughout the winter. Some examples are Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein) and Phlox .
Feeding
Do not feed plants this late in the season, as they are no longer growing the nutrients may be washed into rivers and streams by winter rain, causing pollution.
Mulching
Apply an autumn mulch to protect plants that are borderline hardy such as Agapanthus, Kniphofia and Phygelius. The plants’ own leaves, e.g. Kniphofia, can be tied up and used as protection for the crowns underneath. Clay soils can be more workable in autumn, as they are no longer baked hard, but not yet sodden and sticky with winter wet, mulching will help to improve and maintain soil structure.
Protecting
Make sure that you have not forgotten any of your tender plants and bulbs – they need to be brought inside or into a heated greenhouse over the winter. Protect alpines from the wet, if you have not done so already.
Hellebores rarely flower naturally by Christmas, despite their common name of Christmas rose. They can be encouraged to flower a little earlier, if you want, by covering them with cloches, potting them up and bringing them into a warm greenhouse, or placing them on a windowsill inside the house.
Large tubs that are at risk of cracking in the frost should be covered with bubble wrap, hessian or fleece, to insulate them over the winter.
Raise patio containers onto feet or bricks to avoid them sitting in the winter wet.
Tidying
Remove stakes and other supports as final late-flowering herbaceous plants die down for the winter.
Tidy up leaves from around borders. They can be added to the compost heap, or placed in separate bins to make leafmould. Some leaves, such as plane and sycamore, are slow to break down, and can delay you using your compost if you mix them into the general heap. Leafmould makes an excellent soil improver, and can also be used as a seed-sowing medium.
Dig new flower beds as the weather allows. Don’t work on them when it’s very wet, as walking on sodden soil can cause compaction.
Weeding
In mild weather, weeds will still appear. Hoe regularly to keep them in check. Now can be a good time to dig up perennial weeds with long tap roots, such as dandelions and mallow, from newly cultivated areas.
Order seed catalogues for next year’s bedding and perennials, if not already done.
It is not too late to research and order summer-flowering bulbs for planting in the spring or during the winter.
Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies.
Check chrysanthemums regularly for signs of white rust.
Look out for crown rot and brown rots (sclerotinia) on died down perennials, especially if you are on a clay or poorly-drained soil.
Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris. Antirrhinum rust and Delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia, will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe.
Michaelmas daisy mites on Sypmphyotrichum (syn. Aster) novi-belgii cultivars can be a problem. Other asters, such as Sypmphyotrichum novae-angliae cultivars and Sypmphyotrichum ericoides cultivars, have more resistance.
Grey mould or botrytis can be problematic in wet weather.
Digging the soil, especially bare patches or newly cultivated land, will expose pest larvae and eggs to birds and frosts, as well as clearing weeds and improving soil structure. Don’t leave soil uncovered for too long, however, as it runs the risk of erosion and washing away of valuable nutrients. Black polythene sheeting will protect it in the absence of planting or mulch.
As we approach the shortest day of the year in December you will need work to keep you warm outside, such as digging and tree pruning. Check your winter protection and if you have a greenhouse make sure the heater is working. Hopefully there are not too many jobs left to do this year so you will have time for some fireside garden.
Alpines can be sown from seed this month. They need a period of cold to break the seed dormancy. A sheet of glass can be positioned over the sown area to protect it from excessive wet. Alternatively, the seeds can be stratified in the fridge, for sowing next spring.
Continue to cut back faded herbaceous perennials and add them to the compost heap or alternatively leave these until spring so that they can be used as winter homes for insects.
In mild areas, and during dry spells, you can still lift and divide herbaceous perennials. This will increase stocks, and revive tired or poorly flowering clumps.
Root cuttings can be taken from now. Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein) and Phlox are suitable examples.
Helleborus niger (Christmas rose) blooms can look unsightly when splashed with muddy raindrops. Bark chip mulch will reduce this splashing effect, and cloches can always be used where practical.
Clear up weedy beds ready for spring mulching. Order bulky organic matter (e.g. well-rotted farmyard manure or mushroom compost) for use as a soil improver or mulch.
Check on tender plants outdoors to ensure winter protection is still in place, especially after storms. Raise patio containers onto feet or bricks to avoid them sitting in the winter wet.
Large tubs that are at risk of cracking in the frost should be covered with bubblewrap, hessian or fleece, to insulate them over the winter. Tender plants and pots can be brought into the greenhouse or conservatory if not done so already. Even in mild areas, the winter usually gets much harder after December.
Apply a mulch to protect plants that are borderline hardy.
Finish the autumn tidy-up of leaves from beds and borders if you have not already done so. It is especially important to clear leaves and debris from alpines, as they will die off if covered in damp for any length of time. Bare patches can be covered with gritty compost to encourage the re-growth of surrounding clumps into that area.
Keep tubs and containers tidy too, cutting back and removing debris regularly. They can be mulched with compost.
Improve the drainage of heavy clay soils by working in plenty of bulky organic matter, such as composted bark.
Order seed catalogues, if you have not done so already, to select next year’s bedding and perennial choices. You will have more chance of finding all your choices in stock if you order well before the spring.
Look out for Botrytis (grey mould) on spent herbaceous plants, and remove affected growth. Otherwise there is a risk that fungal problems could spread to healthy plants.
Hellebores can be at risk of diseases such as hellebore leaf spot.
Watch out for downy mildew and leaf spot on winter pansies.
Sometimes daffodils can come up very early, even before Christmas. Enjoy them, but be aware that they too can succumb to fungal problems, such as narcissus leaf scorch.
Look out for crown rot and brown rots (sclerotinia) on died down perennials, especially if you are on a clay or poorly drained soil.
Antirrhinum rust and delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia, will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe.
Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris.
